Outer Banks Summer Surf Explained

Outer Banks: 7.16.12 – Classic OBX Summer Surf

We have been enjoying some classic OBX summer surf over the past few days. Sun, 90′s, water at 75 degrees, cool offshore winds, and easy paddle out, and chest high swell. The swell has faded, but the memories are lingering.

These are the types of conditions we dream about all year. But the reality is the Outer Banks does not see many summer swells that carry much significance. The heavier OBX surf tends to come in the late summer/fall and winter/early spring. The summer months are notoriously small. But sometimes even these small swells can pack a big punch.

I’m a surfer, so I love to head over the dunes and check the waves each and everyday. Most of the time I know what to expect based on forecasts, and sometimes I’m surprised.

I like to think I understand all of the variables that go into wave predictions, but the reality is that my limited understanding is just scratching the surface. There is a whole bunch of wave science behind these swells.

Luckily, the Outer Banks is home to the Army Corps of Engineers Research Pier in Duck, and they have a bunch of smart folks ready to offer some explanations.

OBXSurfInfo.com ran a great article today by Dr. Jeff Hanson from the Duck Research Pier that offers an awesome explanation of the OBX summer surf. And if you’re a lover of surf and the waves, my guess is you’ll find this as interesting as I do.

The full article is well worth the read, but I’ll pull out a few highlights.

Thanks for the rad explanation Dr. Hanson & OBX Surf Info!

• The big drivers of our surf-able wavefield are (1) extra-tropical storms, or “nor’easters” that occur during winter and spring, and (2) tropical storms, including Hurricanes, during late summer and fall.
• In late May through July, however, there is typically a lull during which we have no major storms for a couple of months.
• If there are no storms, where do our summer waves come from?
  1. The semi-permanent Bermuda High, a high-pressure anticyclone which settles over the Atlantic Ocean in the vicinity of Bermuda during the summer, delivers a small but dependable 8-12 second southeast swell to our summer beaches.
     1. At the right spots these waves can shoal up for a fun break that is great for beginner lessons as well as providing fun relaxing rides for old pros.
  2. For more serious summer action, the OBX is occasionally visited by some powerful yet gentle 15-18 second swells that make the trip up from far below the equator in the South Atlantic Ocean.
     1. Although they are typically very small in height as they approach the Outer Banks, Southern Hemisphere swells carry an astonishing amount of energy, shoal up nicely and deliver an entirely different surfing experience.

I’ll leave you hanging there. Seriously, check out the full Long Slow Ride – Southern Hemisphere Swells article. It’s well worth the read.